This morning we will be visiting another Barcelona highlight that we have not seen on any of our previous visits. It is the Benedictine monastery at Montserrat, located in the mountains about 30 miles (1 hour) from Barcelona. Montserrat is the highest point in this part of Spain, rising to 4,055 ft.above the valley floor.
The Santa Maria de Montserrat Abbey (Order of St. Benedict) dates back to 1025 and has about 70-80 monks in residence. The basilica, Mare de Déu de Montserrat, is the major church there and it dates back to the 16th century. Its major relic is the “Black Madonna”, a statue of the Virgin Mary with child, but the faces are almost black in color, thus the name. Note: there are other Black Madonnas in the world, it is not truly unique. Also it is not truly black; it simply has darkened over time. Believed by some to have been carved in Jerusalem in the early days of the church, it is more likely a wooden Romanesque sculpture from the late 12th century. Its origin is one of speculation. By one account, the image of the Madonna was moved to Montserrat in 718, to avoid the danger posed by invading Saracans.
A bit of trivia: The opening chapter of Dan Brown’s 2017 novel Origin is set in Santa Maria de Montserrat. In the book, a crucial, secret meeting is held between an outspoken atheist and major Catholic, Jewish and Muslim clergymen.
We left earlier than normal (8AM) to beat the expected crowds as it was a Saturday. It turned out to be a wise idea. There are three ways to get to the actual monastery: drive, Rack Train, or Funicular. Because of our size we rode to the top on the modern rack railway, a trip that took about 10 minutes. Even though we arrived very early there were large crowds already at the sight. We immediately went into the basilica to view the Black Madonna, a process where time reservations are needed and because of the crowds it is a slow process (15-20 minutes) to actually get close to the statue, located behind the main altar of the church.
Yvonne’s Apple watch was impressed!
Barcelona has interesting street lamps.
That mountain is where we are headed this morning.
An abandoned “company” town from the 19th century. They are looking at repurposing it was a future lower cost living area for people.
Landscape on the way to Montserrat.
At the train station located below the monastery.
Views from the train as we climb the mountain.
The train is very modern.
Exiting the train at the monastery.
Looking out from the train station.
The small cable car is another way to reach the monastery.
There is a funicular to get to a higher location. It is a popular spot for climbers.
The statue of Abbott Oliba who founded the monastery of Santa María de Montserrat in 1025.
There are several very large buildings surrounding the monastery.
Another statue of St. George. Our tour guide says his eyes seem to follow you as you walk by.
The plaza outside the church.
Geraniums must love this climate and location.
Dormitories and hotels are available for pilgrims.
Entrance to the basilica courtyard.
Heavy steel doors protecting the gateway. At one time there would have been long spikes protruding from each circle.
The inner courtyard outside the church.
Entering the walkway to see the Black Madonna.
Carvings that have been rubbed smooth by people’s hands rubbing them as they pass by.
You pass several private chapels as you follow the line to see the statues.
Door to a sacristy.
Mosaics line the final few steps to the statue viewing area.
You are allowed to walk past the statue and say a quick prayer- no loitering.
The black Madonna of Montserrat. The wooden statue is only about 95 cm (37 inches) tall.
Looking toward the back of the church.
Dozens of ancient lamps are part of the church decor.
Looking at the main altar, behind which is the statue of the Black Madonna.
The church organ.
Our tour guide reminding us that the seraphim angels have six wings whereas the cherabim angels only have four.
Self service location to purchase candles.
There was ample locations to place your lighted candle.
The basilica of Montserrat, originally built in 16th century and rebuilt in 1811.
Girls working on their TikTok or Instagram postings next to the fabulous geranium garden.
Nuns, most likely from African countries. They were the only religious we saw while there.
From there we visited the museum where we could see exhibits about the monastery and the church, along with several informative videos about them. There is a famous children’s choir in residence at the church but there was no performance today. We were able, however, to view a video of them singing. They are quite good.
We were shown a video about Montserrat and the monastery.
The monastery is known for its marvelous book collection.
A day in the life of a monk at this monastery.
A not so good picture of the famous children’s choir located here. We did get to hear a video of one of their songs.
We were then given about one hour of free time to further explore the church, the museum, several souvenir shops, hike some short trails in the area or visit the cafeteria for food and drink. Our bus had driven to the top of the mountain and we convened at the proper time to return to Barcelona where we had the rest of the day to explore on our own.
A small farmers market in Montserrat, mostly selling cheeses and sweets.
Cheese soufflés.
We bought a cone of small nibbles of different cheeses.
Cafeteria In Montserrat overlooking the valley.
View from the cafeteria patio.
Cliffs behind the cafeteria and bus parking lot.
These cars are backed up waiting for a spot in the parking area to open. That is the reason we left early – to beat the expected crowds.
Monestir de Sant Benet de Montserrat.
Pretty spectacular mountains near Montserrat.
Winding road near Montserrat.
There are graffiti on every usable space on the highway.
A concrete factory outside of town. It is a big industry here.
Besides a superb underground transportation system Barcelona also has a surface tram.
We were hungry and although we had eaten at an Italian restaurant earlier we had not had pizza so that became the luncheon choice. Again the hotel staff was great and steered us to the best pizza establishment in the area.
We waited with some locals for the restaurant to open at 2PM for lunch. They said it was the best!
The Italian family owners picture.
The wood fired pizza oven.
Margarita pizza with burrata cheese on it.
A complimentary lemoncello after lunch.
Jane and John wanted to look for some souvenirs so we suggested to them that they walk to the popular and famous La Rambla area as our tour had not been there. Yvonne and I have been to La Rambla on past trips and we would be staying there the next two nights so we simply spent the afternoon relaxing (i.e. taking a nap).
It would be our last night together and John and Jane had not yet experienced the other major culinary treat of Barcelona- tapas! The hotel steered us to a famous local spot: Vinitus. They do not take reservations but being early eaters we arrived by 6:45 to find that we could get a table in about 10 minutes. The menus are huge but luckily our waitress provide friendly advice and we ended up with a lovely selection of excellent tapas. It was a fun experience! When we left at 8:15 the place was packed and 25-30 people were lingering around at the entrance waiting to get a table.
Barcelona is a walking city!
The specials of the day.
The regular menu.
Yet more items to choose from. It was somewhat daunting to pick what and how many dishes to order.
Desserts, of course.
People sitting at the “bar” and watching the chefs prepare the dishes.
The famous Spanish potato tapas.
A delightful shrmp and avocado tapas.
Their version of chicken tenders. They were much better than those you get in the USA.
Super tender cali calamari.
Cod with honey aioli.
A marvelous piece of tenderloin.
Shrimp skewer.
Got to have churros and a chocolate dipping sauce.
Crème brûlée.
The dessert the concierge at the hotel said we had to try-“Torrija cremada de Sta. Teresa”. It was awesome! Should have ordered two.
We were downstairs and had our own kitchen and chefs.
The upstairs kitchen area.
When we left the restaurant at 8:15 PM there were at least 25 -30 people waiting for a table! It is that popular.
That’s all, folks! John and Jane leave in the morning and we will be staying a couple more days here.
The formal AmaWaterways tour was officially over. John and Jane were leaving for home the first thing in the morning. We would be moving to another hotel in the La Rambla area and spending two extra days in the area, the prime reason is to venture to the nearby (3 hour drive) to the country of Andorra, a tiny, independent principality situated between France and Spain in the Pyrenees mountains. It is an official UN country that we have never visited. It will be country #104 for me! Being this close to it I simply had to take the time to visit it.