August 29, 2017: It Was Quite a Day!
Today was the official first day of our driving tour of Iceland. We were picked up by the local car rental agency at 8:30 to get our 4×4 Kia ( concession to Scott) so we could go “four wheeling” if we got a chance. Normally I decline the optional insurance coverage, figuring my local insurance will cover me. However, when the agent started marking the smallest gravel chip marks in the paint I decided I would pay for full coverage which includes chipped paint, chipped windows, etc to avoid a hassle and possible argument when we returned the car. I recall recalling how foreign countries are more strict in their interpretation of car damage.
Getting all checked out we then left on the first leg of our journey, traveling eastward along the southern portion of Iceland with the goal of being in the small village of Vik (291 people), located 180 km from Reykjavik, by the end of the day. Our only scheduled activity was a snowmobile ride onto the Myrdalsjokull glacier, leaving at 3PM. Piece of cake! Ha!
We stopped at the local gas station for driving provisions prior to leaving the city. The station reminded me a lot of those in Europe in that they sell good coffee and good food, including snacks along with gasoline. Fortified we found highway 1, known as the “Ring Road” the only main road (2 lanes only) circles the country.
Besides the material giving to us by the local travel agency we had guide books from Lonely Planet, Eyewitness Book and a detailed National Geographic map. It turned out to be almost too much information as I tried juggling the various sources on my lap fulfilling my role as navigator.
Our first stop was at the newly opened Lava Centre in Hvolsvollur, where we watched a short movie documenting all the past modern-day Iceland volcano eruptions and walked through hands-on exhibits teaching us about volcanoes, their types and patterns. It was an informative use of an hour of our time.
Our next stops were at several of the famous waterfalls in the area, the largest was Seljalandsfoss, which drops 60 meters. A unique feature of this waterfall is you can walk behind it if you do not mind the mist it throws up. Well, obviously we had to do that so we donned our rain coats and followed the path behind the falls for some picture-taking opportunities. It was not as wet as I had feared and we only be subjected to some minimal mist. There were also several other smaller falls in the same general area that we walked to.
The land in this area of Iceland is rather flat and near Reykjavik it was covered with beautiful covering of green mosses. Later in the day we saw rolling meadows of green grass where flocks of very woolly sheep grazed. It reminded me a lot of Ireland. To our left were the cliffs of mountains and to the right was the ocean, separated by those green, green fields. It was very pretty.
There was one more quick stop at yet another waterfall called Skogafoss, which falls 60 meters. You can climb 574 stairs to view the falls from the top. Because we were running out of time ( will explain later) Scott volunteered to run them and grab a photo while I photographed the falls from below. By the way “foss” is the Icelandic word for waterfall.
We were running late at this time because we had reservation to go snowmobiling on the glacier field of Myrdalsjokull, the 4th largest glacier in the country. We hurriedly grabbed a bowl of soup at one of the many nearby small cafes that dot the landscape. I tried their famous lamb soup which is fabulous! Made with vegetables it reminded me a lot of the type of soups my grandmother used to make. Scott had the soup of the day-cauliflower. The soups always come with slices of awesome homemade breads.
The snowmobile ride was a first for me, doubly so because it was out on a glacier filed. They outfitted us with the necessary gear: snow suits, hoodies, helmets, boots and gloves. I felt a little like the doughboy when “assembled” . About 30 of us were loaded into a massive 8 wheeled overgrown snowcat which took us up to the ice field where the snowmobiles were located. Because of the receding glaciers it now takes almost 50 minutes to get there, whereas it took only 30 minutes years ago. The terrain covered is moon-like in appearance-nothing but dirt and rocks.
Once at the takeoff point we were given quick instructions on how to use the snowmobiles and what to do to avoid tipping over( you lean into the turn) and then it was off, single file, to experience the ice of a glacier, led by two guides to make sure we did not get lost. I let Scott do the driving; I rode behind and enjoyed the ride, taking pictures along the way. The glacier field went on as far as they eye could see. It is hard to appreciate glaciers until you are on top of them. 30 minutes later we stopped at the edge of an expanding crevasse cutting across the glacier. Our guides told us more about the glacier we were on, the crevasse we were seeing and pointing out what we could see around us. Of most interest (to me) was the nearby volcano, Eyjafallajokull ( kull means volcano) noted for its 2010 eruption that caused us and Europe numerous travel related problems. Today it sat serenely in the distance, but who knows when it will erupt again. By the way we learned that 30 of the volcanoes on Iceland are considered active and many have erupted in recent history. The people of Iceland must live in constant fear of these volcanoes.
More driving and we finally ended up good and tired at our destination for the evening-the “Farmhouse Lodge” near the village of Vik.
I am convinced that the Icelanders invented the concept of the airbnb as the whole island is dotted with small family owned establishments that rent rooms to travelers. The Farmhouse was a home located on a working sheep farm that had 7 rooms (all ensuing) to rent out. The room was clean, the beds were comfortable and the water was hot. It was excellent.
There were no restaurants in the area so we had to back to Vik where we dined in one of Trip Advisor’s top picks for the town. All the restaurants are small, often in homes. The food was awesome. I had lamb filets that were magnificent and Scott had chicken. We shared a marvelous Greek salad before the main courses arrived. Yes, prices were like top end Seattle restaurants but it was worth every cent.
It was still light out after we finished dinner so we went to visit the famous black sand beach of Vik. It has become even more famous lately as part of the Game of Thrones was filmed there. The sand is truly black, being pulverized lava.
I only walked 7438 steps today but all that mountain air made me good and tired. Goodnight !