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April 25, 2023: Heading to Busan, the Miami of South Korea.

April 25, 2023: Heading to Busan, the Miami of South Korea.

A rainy day- the first bad weather we have encountered. Luckily it is only expected to last one day, and a good part of the day will be spent on the bus as we work our way to the coastal city of Busan.

Before leaving the area we were taken to tour a very large Buddhist temple complex called Bulguksa. It is considered to be the most famous temple in Korea and is rated as the #1 historic sight to see by the government. The temple dates back to 751 but wars resulted in destruction and some rebuilding since that time. However, the stone steps leading to the complex are original. We spent at least an hour walking around the different worship halls in the complex, buildings that contained different Buddha statues dedicated to different needs.

From there we were back to the bus and continued our way to Busan. Lunch involved a new adventure- a stop at the highway rest stop where we ordered lunch at their eatery which necessitated using a computerized order system. Luckily Rob stood by and helped us interpret the offerings and make our orders which were quickly made and posted on their “ready board”.

Once we reached Busan (called the Miami of Korea) we first went to the Gamcheon Culture Village for a short walking tour. The village, known for its layered streets on the side of a mountain, twisting labyrinth alleys and brightly painted homes has become a major tourist attraction, hosting over 1.5 million visitors a year. It was originally built in the 1920-30s to house workers and has since grown into the tourist attraction it has become. Unfortunately the rain continued as we walked the streets, taking away some of the allure of our visit.

From the village we did a walking tour of the enormous Jagalchi fish market in the downtown area near the port. The Jagalchi market is the largest seafood market in Korea with both indoor and outdoor stalls where vendors (almost always women) sell both live and dried fish and a huge variety of seafood- octopus, abalone, clams, oysters, urchins and things I did not even recognize. There are also restaurants on the 2nd level where you can take your freshly purchased fish to be prepared. Sashimi (raw fish) is obviously a popular product. I had never seen so many live tanks with every conceivable fish or sea creature imaginable.

One more stop before we go to our hotel- a visit to the Haedong Yonggungsa Buddhist temple, which is unique in that it is located on the shores of the Yellow Sea, whereas most Buddhist temples are located in mountainous areas. It is stunning! It was originally built in 1376, but had to be rebuilt in the 1930s because it had been destroyed during the Japanese 16th century occupation of South Korea. If I were a Buddhist monk I would want to be here. We were given free time to discover and appreciate the temple on our own.

Finally, after a long day, we made it to our hotel for the night. Since we were in Busan Rob told us he was headed to his favorite seafood restaurant and again we were free to join him, which many of us did. It turned out to be an “interesting” evening in what was on the menu and what we ate!

Rob added another surprise after dinner suggesting we join him to participate in a very popular, an almost “must-do” Korean activity- karaoke! Well….when in Rome…..so I joined him and 5 others in venturing forth to a local establishment dedicated to the art. I was surprised and impressed at the setup of the studio we entered- comfortable couches, a large screen TV, professional microphones, snacks, soju and a huge book of both English and Korean songs to select from. It was first class. I contributed by leading with one of the few songs I am capable of leading-Sweet Caroline. The good news is everyone joins in so you are not singing alone!  Rob did treat us to a rousing “Gangnam” style Korean song which everyone loved. Others did their share at leading songs and our 1 hour passed quickly. Amazingly the total bill for everything was $56! It was a fun experience.

Tomorrow after visiting some additional local sites we will take a bullet train back to Seoul. By the way another good day of walking:  11,692 steps!

April 24, 2023: Exploring the Area Around Gyeongju.

April 24, 2023: Exploring the Area Around Gyeongju.

Last night I had decided to sleep in and not go to the 5:30AM meditation. However at the announced hour of 5 AM we all were awaken by the Buddhist call to wake up via a series of outdoor loudspeakers located throughout the temple complex. You could not sleep if you wanted to! So I figured I might as well dress and trudge up that steep road to the temple complex where we had walked to yesterday. It was just barley light enough to see my way as I joined others also headed in that direction. Beneath the patio where the sunmudo demonstration was held is a small indoor temple. Upon arrival I found other attendees already sitting on mats on the floor with the monk seated on his mat facing the Buddhist altar in front. Soon he began the ritual chanting as he beat a rhythm to accompany the chant on a wooden block called a “Wok Tok”. The chanting was combined with standing, then kneeling and bowing over a period of 15-20 minutes as he performed their morning service. We were to follow the motions as best we could. I did take a quick picture before the service began but not during this service out of respect.

Before the morning meditation service began. The monk is in front and the sunmudo master is in the grey clothing on the right.

Rob had suggested that if we skipped the 5:30AM service he would recommend the walking meditation service that would be held right after. Well since I was already there I chose to join everyone to see what it involved. After sitting a few moments and doing several simple stretching exercises the sunmudo master led us on a walk through the nearby woods. I have to admit it was reflective and relaxing to simply sit and walk quietly in the crisp morning air. The “service” lasted about 20 minutes and was worth doing.

Breakfast would now be served(6:30AM)  and I was curious what a vegan breakfast might entail. Rice was the main ingredient along with vegetables, another soup and some fruit. There was toast with honey also available. No coffee, only water. Same routine as last night. Take off your shoes, gather your food, sit on the floor and wash your dishes.

There was another sunmudo training session at 9AM for those interested. After watching yesterday’s session, I was not interested in participating so I remained in my room, checking up on the events of the world. We  would be leaving the temple around 10AM and were instructed to “clean up” our room and return the used bedding, towel and clothing to the office before then.

One of our travel companions learned there was a coffee shop right outside the gates of the temple if anyone wanted to get coffee before we left. I certainly did and once I returned to civilian clothing and turned in my laundry I walked there and proceeded to have a very nice americano coffee. By the way if you go into any coffee shop in South Korea that is the coffee that is listed first. The Koreans love their coffee.

Once we left the temple the plan was to explore a few of the other attractions in the area and spend the night in a local hotel in Gyeongju before continuing to Busan. Stop number 1 was a visit to the Yangdong Folk Village, a UNESCO heritage site. Houses in the village date back to the 15th century, during the Joseon Dynasty. There are two distinct home types here: large elegant, tiled roofed homes high on the hill owned by the wealthy residents and small, thatched roofed homes below owned by the workers. Several 500+ year old homes still exist and there are 54 homes that are over 200 years old!  We did a walking tour of the area to see the palatial homes of the two founding families (Son and Yi ) which are still occupied by descendants. Obviously we could not enter the actual home but we were able to walk onto the property and see the outside of the homes.

Lunch had been arranged at a small family owned restaurant in the village where we were overwhelmed by the number ( I think I counted 15) of side dishes that accompanied our main dish of either pork, fish of vegetarian bibimbap. The owners also served us rice wine with the meal. It was quite a full table!

Leaving the village we then headed into Gyeongju to visit the Cheomseongdae Observatory and the Royal Tombs. Cheomseongdae Observatory is thought to have been built during the reign of Queen Seondeok (r. 632-647) of the Silla Dynasty for observation of the movements of heavenly bodies. It is the oldest astronomical observatory in Asia. It stand 9 meters high, has 12 stones on the base layer (12 months of year), with 30 layers of stones (days in a month) and a total of 366 stones in the structure. There is  a hole in the center where one can climb into and watch star progression over time. During the ancient period, astronomy was deeply related to agriculture as farming times were often determined according to the movements of the stars.

Nearby is the site of some Royal Tombs of kings from the Shilla kingdom (one of three ancient kingdoms of Korea). There are about 20 grassy mounds which contain the remains of former kings and their family. Only one has ever been opened. It is called the Cheonmachong tomb (built in 5th or 6th CE), meaning “sky horse” which was depicted on items found in the tomb. The reason it was the only one opened is that nowhere in history could they find who was buried there, so they rationalized that perhaps they could determine who it was if they opened it. They never did learn who it was, but they did uncover over 11,500 gold artifacts in the tomb, replicas of which were on display here. Why were other other tombs not robbed over the centuries? The thought is that construction of the tombs was so complex ( wood, stone, dirt) that it would have made it extremely difficult to penetrate them.

That completed the day’s activities and we went to a local hotel for a good night’s sleep in real beds! Again Rob offered to join him at a local restaurant where the focus was on Korean pork belly BBQ. Of course we all went to experience Korean BBQ. It required a bit of education on how to do it but it was a lot of fun and we ate (and drank) well! I really like the concept of the tour leader taking us to local restaurants even though we each pay for our meals. Normally unless the meal is included with the tour package you are on your own. I wish other tour companies offered the same approach.

There were several optional activities offered on the tour, including one to visit a local attraction called the Anapji Ponds at night. Normally we would have to take a 20 minute cab ride from the hotel but Rob asked our bus driver if he would take us there after dinner if we would pay him for his time. A deal was cut and for 5000won each ($3.73) he would take us. Deal! I was not sure why it was so worth seeing but this made it easy to see what all the interest was about a pond.  Once there I can say it was one of the major highlights of the trip for me-simply breathtaking display of lights on trees and pagodas with reflections on the still waters on the pond. It was magical!

 

Back to the hotel for a good, restful sleep as I logged 19,941 steps this day-a new record I think!

My reaction to my stay at the Buddhist Temple:  Been there, done that…..no interest to do it again!

April 23, 2023: Heading South to a Buddhist Temple Stay!

April 23, 2023: Heading South to a Buddhist Temple Stay!


We left the hotel at 8:40AM heading to the train station where we will take to our next stop: Gyeongju where we will spending the night in a Buddhist Temple. To get to the train station we will be taking the extensive Seoul subway which consists of 9 separate lines! As Rob had suggested I packed only a few essentials in the small tote I bought yesterday, leaving my larger suitcase at the Prince Hotel as we will be returning there at the end of the trip. That and my backpack was all I was taking. It turned out to be an excellent idea and made life a whole lot simpler.

It was nice having Rob lead us through the process of finding and boarding the subway as it can be a bit daunting the first time. Since it was a Sunday there were few crowds and the process was easy. Rob did tell us that during the workweek it can be a bit chaotic because of the crowds. They actually employ men who act as “pushers” to cram more people onto the subway cars. Sure glad we did not have to experience that!

It was only 2 stops to the huge main train station where we had about 30 minutes to wander around as Rob stood watch over our “luggage”. There were tempting eateries around in the station including a vending machine that sold Krispy Krème donuts! Unfortunately it only dispensed a box of 12! Having just had breakfast all I did was walk around and look at all the different offerings! I did buy a cream-filled pastry  that resembled a bismarck. It was loaded with whipped cream and red bean paste. Needless to say it was messy eating and I only consumed half.

This train trip was not one of their bullet trains; it was a conventional train but it was luxurious, quiet and clean. And it left on time. It even had excellent wifi service. A common sight during our train ride was seeing apartment complexes that consisted of 3 or more high rise towers.

The length of the trip was about two hours and we arrived in Daegu where we would be transported by bus to the Buddhist temple in Gyeongju. Since it was around noon Rob said we were free to have lunch at one of the restaurants located in the fairly large train station. I ended up with several others in a noodle shop where I had an udon noodle bowl with fried shrimp which only cost $5.65.

We then loaded into a huge 50 passenger bus so we each had our own row (or two) to ourselves for the ride to our destination for the night-the Golgusa Temple where we will experience life as a monk!

Upon arrival we were issued temple garb, consisting of over sized cotton pants and a sleeveless vest-like top. We were also given a sheet and pillow case cover and directed to our rooms which were pretty spartan! There was no bed and no chair. You were expected to sleep on the floor on a mat (covered by the sheet) and a duvet as a cover. There was a bathroom in the room which included sort of a shower, which I chose not to use while there. There was one small hand towel. Luckily I had bought a wash cloth while in Seoul so I was set. There was also a pair of slippers in the room as you were asked to remove shoes while in it.

There was a map of the temple facilities and a schedule of events given to us upon arrival, which included orientation of what to expect while there.

The first event was a demonstration of sunmudo, which is practiced and taught by the monks living here. Sunmudo is a combination of meditation, yoga and martial arts. Sounded interesting and I looked forward to the demonstration. Unfortunately it was being held in a building further into the temple complex from our living quarters and involved a considerable walk with a lot of elevation gain to get there. Dressed in our temple finery we trudged our way up to the outdoor patio where it would be held, out of breath and a bit sweaty by this time. Besides our group there were others who also were staying at the temple (dressed accordingly) and many tourists who came simply to see the demonstration, which I had to admit was pretty impressive, especially as performed by a young girl who seemed to be double jointed when doing some of her poses (all done to music). The sunmudo master also showed us the moves they make as part of their training. There was also a lady singer who performed several Korean songs that most attendees knew as they clapped along with the song. Sunmudo is obviously more complex than judo.

From there we are instructed to go to another building where the sunmudo master would hold a class teaching us the sunmudo poses. Well, at least the simpler ones. Because it involved mats on the floor and I was unsure as to how intense it would be I chose to watch with a few others rather than actually joining the class. I did some of the meditation exercises and simple stretching moves as I was familiar with them from my chair yoga classes. I even learned a few new, fairly simple routines. Then the master lead the group into more complex exercises that really stressed the body. I watched the others struggle to complete the poses/exercises. He really worked them!

I might add prior to the sunmudo class he showed us an animated film on how to show respect while in the temple, such as removing shoes in most places, the respectful bow, the etiquette of meals, etc.

By this time it was 6:30PM and time for our vegetarian dinner eaten while sitting quietly on the floor at low tables. The food was surprisingly good and filling. Hopefully it will help me lose the 5 extra pounds I put on during Covid. We were expected to wash our dishes after the meal. You had not be late for dinner because the food disappeared exactly at 7PM!

Our activities for the day were done and we were expected to have lights out by 9PM as we will be awaken at 5AM tomorrow! And we were not encouraged to wander around after dinner because of this posted notice.

Surprisingly I had internet access (thank you T Mobile!) so I worked a bit on this blog and caught up on the news before calling it a day about 8:30. We will see what tomorrow brings as the s schedule shows there is a optional meditation service at 5:30AM back at the Buddhist temple located where we saw the sunmudo demonstration today.

April 22, 2023: Exploring Seoul Highlights

April 22, 2023: Exploring Seoul Highlights

All that walking yesterday resulted in a good night’s sleep but I was still up by 6:30, ready the greet another day. Weather is expected to remain good, some sun and a high of 68- perfect for sightseeing! A buffet breakfast is included with our travels and I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of it. There are no complaints from me and I especially liked the fresh orange slices (very sweet) and the yogurt.

We met in the lobby for a 9AM departure and loaded into a small 20 passenger bus as we started our tour of the city. The first stop was at what is referred to as the “Blue House” which is the equivalent of our White House. It is (or rather was until this year) the home of the Korean President. The rest of the story is when he was elected last year he decided he wanted a different home as the head of the government so he moved out as a new home was being built. The Blue House is currently empty and hosts local tours! We did not go in, only stopping for a photograph. By the way, it got its name from its supposed blue roof, which is not really blue. It looks more like aquamarine, but the name has stuck.

Our first real stop was at one of the 5 former palaces that exists in the city- Gyeongbok Palace, originally built in 1395 during the Joseon dynasty, but was destroyed in the 16th century, during the Injin War.  It laid dormant until the 19th century when its 7700 rooms (and 500 buildings) were rebuilt under the direction of King Gojong, only to be partially destroyed by the Japanese in the 20th century. Since the 1990s it is being gradually restored to its former glory. We arrived in time to witness the changing of the guard, a colorful event with ancient costumes and drummers. After that we were given some free time to wander the surrounding area for pictures. There is an interesting tradition at the palace. There are multiple shops in the area that rent Korean costumes which, if rented, allows people to enter the palace grounds free of charge. As a result there were a lot of colorfully dressed men, women and even children strolling the grounds in traditional Korean clothes from bygone eras. It makes for a lavish, colorful scene and I found myself taking a lot of photos of the brightly colored clothes.

After viewing the palace we went to the National Folk Museum of Korea, located on the palace gounds. The museum focuses on the every day life of the Korean people from antiquity to present day. Unfortunately we were only given about 30 minutes of free time to visit it. Needless to say it is impossible to do it justice in that short of a time.  I was amazed at seeing how ancient man was clever enough to build and use implements to make his life easier. I guess the adage: Necessity is the mother of invention is really true.

Another popular highlight of any visit to Seoul is to visit a neighborhood of traditional Korean homes that date back to the 14th century, called “Hanok”. We drove to the nearby Bukchon Hanok village where we walked the narrow lanes past traditional Korean homes that are still occupied.  The interest in these homes has brought about a conflict with the people living there as there are tourists parading past their homes every day. We were asked to walk quietly through the area so as to not disturb the residents. The homes looked more modern to me than, say, the Hutong neighborhoods you see in China.

The last stop today was another popular destination called the Insadong neighborhood which is noted for its many antique and souviner shops and restaurants. We were given free time and many of us chose to join Rob who was headed to a local noodle restaurant he likes. I was not one to pass up an opportunity to learn something new (and have someone help decipher the menu options). Rob likes “cold” noodle dishes but that did not sound all that appetizing to me so I selected a “hot” soup with dumplings in it. It was very good but with 4 giant dumplings in it, it was more than I could finish. Service is very quick at these restaurants and when finished you go to the cashier and simply tell them what you are and they tell you what you owe. Talk about trusting the customer to be honest!  Along that same train of thought, Rob told us that travel on the subway was extremely safe. So much so that if you left a phone or other valuable on the subway you could call their lost/found to claim it and it would be there.  People are very honest and turn in lost items. How often do you think that would happen in the USA?

Rob had suggested we not take our large luggage for the few days we would not be in Seoul; we could leave them stored at the hotel in Seoul as we will be retuning here. Good idea, so I used the rest of my free time to search for a small travel duffle bag to carry the few items I might need for the next 4 days. I found what I needed in one of the small shops in Insadong.

We had the choice of remaining in Insadong or riding back with Rob at 2PM. About half of us chose to ride. I had clocked close to 9000 steps by that time and did not relish more walking.  After another short nap and work on this blog I ventured out about 6:30 to grab a hamburger at the local McDonalds for simply a change of pace (and to see how their menu varied from those in USA).  They do offer several shrimp patty sandwiches here but I did not try them. I opted for what they call a “1955 burger” , which had lettuce, tomato, grilled onion sand bacon. Never saw that in the US. Not bad. Looking for something sweet afterwards I wandered back into the Myeongdong area next to our hotel where we were last night. Again there were huge crowds of people, more varied street food carts, and stores open for shoppers. I opted for a large cup of fresh strawberries form a fruit vendor and was not disappointed as they were sweet and tasty .

So the day ended with 12,466 steps logged and me making pretty good progress on keeping up with this blog. We leave at 8:40AM to catch our train to our next stop, Gyeongju, where we will spend the night in a Buddhist temple and participate in activities with the monks. It should be an interesting stay!

 

April 21, 2022: Exploring Korean Cruisine.

April 21, 2022: Exploring Korean Cruisine.

Since I have most of the day free before meeting my travel companions and our tour leader this evening I decided to do what we often do when visiting a new country- sign up for a walking food tour to learn more about what I will expect to eat while here. This one sounded intriguing, offered by Secret Food Tours Seoul:

https://www.secretfoodtours.com/seoul/food-tours-seoul/

The walking tour makes 7 food stops to try local Korean street food and lasts about 3.5 hours.   It will be interesting to see who else will  be on the tour.

I managed to stay up last night until about 8:30PM local time (4:30 AM Seattle time) before calling it a day. I did have to wander down to the front desk with my handheld Samsung AC controller to have them explain how to operate it as all the symbols were in Korean.

Woke up today, fully refreshed, at 4:30AM ready to hit it!  Oh well, an afternoon nap will hopefully get the final time adjustment in place. Using the extra time to start this day’s blog before venturing out for a coffee. I did walk a few blocks last night in the local area and found   Both a Starbucks and a McDonalds! Since my walking tour begins at 10AM I do not want to have a heavy breakfast before departing for the tour.

While looking up the hours of nearby coffee shops I quickly learned that Seoul does not wake up early! Virtually all the coffee shops did not open until 7AM or later! McDonalds does not even open until 10:30AM. I killed time writing this blog entry and finally ventured out about 6:45 to go to a nearby coffee shop called Hollys which was supposedly open. It was not! Heading back to the hotel I noticed a Starbucks next door and found it opened at 7, so in I went. An Americano and a scone cost me $5.90, inexpensive compared to Seattle Starbucks prices. While drinking my coffee I noted more things about Seoul and Korean culture. Koreans work hours are 9-6, perhaps explaining the late opening of coffee shops. The cars on the road are clean and new, as are the well-marked cabs.  There are very few motorbikes on the streets and NO electric bikes or scooters crowding the sidewalks and streets. There are very few bike lanes. Over 50% of the people (going and old) on the street are wearing face masks.

Asking the front desk about directions to the food tour meeting place he suggested taking the local subway system which would have involved a transfer along the way. Having noted that there are sometimes English signage with the Korean signage I still did not feel comfortable trying to maneuver the huge (9 separate lines) transit system this early in the trip so I plan to take a cab, which are plentiful, clean and modestly priced.

Taking a cab worked like a charm and the bill was only  $5.87 and you do not tip the driver. Our guide was a young lady a named Sonsa and we were joined by a family of 4 (2 teenage sons) from Melbourne, Australia. We walked through the nearby  famous food market (Gwangjang) where we stopped at several locations to taste traditional Korean street food and try their popular rice wine called Makgeolli. We learned that Koreans eat out an awful lot and it is places like here in the market that they frequent. We left the market and walked to other nearby locales for further sightseeing and food including some delicious ice cream and finally ending up at a local traditional (leave your shoes at the door and sit on the floor) tea house for a special medicinal tea and more snacks. It was a delightful 3.5 hour tour of trying local foods and drink. I liked it all except I was not fond of a dish of beef tartar mixed with slivered pears and a raw egg!

We walked through the market as we stopped and sampled the various foods. The market offers a marvelous visual and scent tableau of Korean life.

Leaving the market we walked to other nearby locations to see shops and visit our final food tasting items.

Another cab ride ($4.98) with an 84 year old driver who spoke a bit of English brought me back to the hotel for a needed 2 hour nap before meeting with my tour people at 6PM.

At 6 PM our travel group of 16 met with our tour director, Rob Lee, for the first time. Surprisingly the age of the group was older than I expected, as I was under the impression that G Adventures catered to a younger crowd. In our group of 16 only two of the group (2 girls from the UK) were on the young side. The rest of us fall into the mature category. There is a gentleman and lady from Ireland ( they do not know each other), a gentle person from Australia, a couple from Victoria, BC, two couples from California and two ladies from NY state. Also surprisingly many people have traveled with G Adventures before.

Rob, who was born and raised in Korea and has worked for G Adventures for 7 years, spent about 20 minutes going over the logistics of the trip and then led us to a local restaurant to experience the Korean BBQ, where the meal is cooked at your table.

After dinner for which we each paid our own bill (mine was 28,000Won or $21.05 – no tipping in Korea) Rob offered to take us on a walk of the local area to show us Seoul at night. Walking the streets of Seoul at night is quite an experience! Thousands of people, dozens of street food carts lining the pedestrian street and offering every imaginable hand held food item, stores open until 10-11PM. It is a happening place!

The ultimate goal of Rob’s walk was to show us the artifical stream that was created in the middle of the city. Originally a road it was converted into a moving stream of water through the city center. It is 10 km long and the flowing  water is recycled by huge pumps. It is very popular with people of all ages, especially the kids who play in the shallow water during the summer.  It reminded me of the river walk in San Antonio, but without the bars and restaurants.

14,483 steps later I was back in my room and more than ready for a good nights sleep. Tomorrow we begin our tour of local sights in Seoul.

 

April 19-20, 2023: Destination- Seoul, Korea

April 19-20, 2023: Destination- Seoul, Korea

Although my tour does not begin until April 21 I prefer to arrive a day early to allow my aging body to acclimatize to the new time zone. By leaving on the 19th I actually arrive in Seoul late in the afternoon of the 20th- date line comes into play here. The flight time from Seattle to Seoul is a bit over 12 hours and I selected a flight that leaves in the late morning so I could leave our home earlier that morning rather than spending the night in Seattle. Korean Airlines is the obvious major airline that flies from here to there, but it is in partnership with Delta who actually does the flight I am on. I am trying something new on this trip. Normally when we fly internationally we fly business class so Yvonne has the maximum amount of space and sleep potential. Since I am flying alone and the flight is mostly a day time flight I decided to try their “premium economy” sector, saving a ton of money over what they wanted for business class seats. I will have to let you know if that is/is not a good decision! Coming home after the tour I chose to fly business class on Asiana, since it is an overnight flight and I favor foreign airline over US based airlines as their services are usually better.

Geography & history lesson for the day:  South Korea is officially called the Republic of Korea (ROK). It has a population of 51.75 million people, of which about half reside in/around Seoul, which is the 4th most populated metropolitan area in the world! Its land area is about the same as that as Portugal. It is surrounded on three sides by water and its northern border is with North Korea. I was surprised to learn there are 3400 islands considered to be part of South Korea.

Written history shows occupation back in the 7th century (BCE- before common era- which is the politically correct designation for what we used to refer to as BC, before Christ). After a succession for several kingdoms that each lasted centuries, the Kingdom of Korea was annexed by the Empire of Japan in 1910, which lasted until the end of WWII. After the war  Korea was divided into a southern sector overseen by the US while the northern sector was under the control of Russia. Sound familiar?

Northern Korea invaded the south in 1950, resulting in the Korean War which lasted until 1953. Since that time South Korea has grown dramatically and has become a global manufacturing & financial global force with the likes of Samsung, Hyundai, LG Electronics and many large financial institutions.

End of lesson for the day.

My flight left on time. Originally slated for 12 hours we were told it would be a bit over 10 hours today. Shortcut or tail winds? The flight was completely filled which surprised me as this is not the peak travel time to Korea.

The “Premium Select” seats and service was a bit of a disappointment. Yes, the seats were wider and reclined a bit more but the supposed foot rest could not really be extended enough to offer any benefit. Also the meal service was what one typically expects to get in coach, again a bit of a disappointment. However, I saved over $800 on the fare by downgrading from business class so I am not complaining.

We did arrive over an hour early in Seoul. The Seoul airport is visually impressive,  as was being cleared by immigration and customs. Luggage delivery was also fast and I was free to go within 20 minutes of leaving the plane. I had to wait for the Suntransfer car I had booked to take me to the hotel. At least I was able to use the local ATM while waiting.

My initial impressions of Seoul are it is huge, it is modern and it is clean! There were blooming azaleas along the highway and even in the downtown area. Major streets downtown were often 4 lanes in each direction! Drivers seemed courteous as I never heard a horn blown in anger. I did not see trash or graffiti. There are pieces of art located on many street corners, adding the the visual beauty of the city. There are coffee shops everywhere, often right next to each other. My driver said Koreans are coffee, not tea drinkers.  After being in China and other Asian countries this is not what I expected.

Tomorrow morning I am doing a walking food tour before meeting with our tour group in the evening.

 

A Hole in my Calendar!

A Hole in my Calendar!

In looking at my calendar for April, May and June I found it quite empty, i.e. there are no planned trips on the calendar. Time is marching on and I am not getting any younger. Action was required. Not one to sit idle I perused options for “solo” trips to places I knew Yvonne would not be interested in visiting- like Tanzania, Armenia, Tunisia, Georgia, and even Saudi Arabia- places that have not found a place on my “Countries Visited” list.  There were either problems with availability or timing. My search turned eastward and I found a short, eight day April tour to South Korea, which surprisingly I/we have never visited. I have become fond of Korean BBQ and bibimbap dishes; I am intrigued about the demilitarized zone(DMZ) between North & South Korea; our Scott Scott visited Seoul for work and said it was a cool place, and it would become country #103 on my list. So why not go? Done deal!

The tour is with G Adventures and is called the “Best of South Korea”.  Details of the trip can be found at:  https://www.gadventures.com/trips/best-of-south-korea/9008/

 

The trip includes a night’s stay in a Buddhist temple and visits to Busan and the DMZ. As I am arriving a day early I have added a walking food tour in Seoul that focuses on Korean street food. It promises to be an interesting trip.

 

 

 

December 6-7, 2022: Homeward Bound!

December 6-7, 2022: Homeward Bound!

All good things come to an end and that is now the case for this momentous cruise. As expected we were off the ship right at 9AM (some of the last to go because we were on an independent exit). The cruise industry has evolved the disembarkation process over the years to where it is quite efficient and not overwhelming with hundreds of people emerging and trying to find their luggage at the same time. These days groups of maybe 50 people are called to exit and thus it is much easier to find your luggage which is neatly grouped by color code in the cruise terminal.

Upon our exit we easily found our local tour guide, Claudia, an American lady who has lived in Cape Town for 25+ years, who loaded our luggage into her into her ample sized SUV and off we went for a partial day of sightseeing before going to the airport for our flights. When hiring her (tours by locals.com) I indicated we had already seen the major sights (Table Mountain, Robben Island, the colorful buildings/culture of Bo-Kaap, the nearby wine country, Cape of Good Hope- normal attractions covered by guided tours) and asked that she show us some of the lesser known attractions in the city, which she did, including a fascinating museum dedicated to Bishop Desmond Tutu who might be as important as Mandela when it comes the dealing with apartheid in South Africa, the Castle of Good Hope, a former 17th fortress now a museum and a visit to a tea shop we were learned about different types of local teas and their medicinal properties. We even got in a bit of shopping at the local African market where we managed to pick up a few mementos of the area. As requested she delivered us to the airport about three hours before our scheduled flight(s) home, which leads me to relate a story about our complicated trip home!

Steps for the day: 9,420.

One of the benefits of cruising with Regent is they include business class seats on flights when flying internationally. I initially selected a pair of flights on Qatar Airlines through Doha with only a several hour layover in Doha between flights. We had never flown on Qatar and they have a great reputation so I was excited about the opportunity to try them. Unfortunately, months later they changed their departure times which would have required us to spend the night in Doha before flying to Seattle. That did not seem bad EXCEPT it so happened that the FIFA World Cup soccer tournament was going on at this time and there were absolutely no rooms available anywhere in the Doha area, so we had to change to a set of flights on Turkish Airlines through Istanbul.

Turkish Airlines have a good reputation and the flights would be on new 787s so I did not feel bad about the change, EXCEPT that our flight to Istanbul arrived at 6AM (after a 10.5 hour overnight flight) and our connecting 12 hour flight to Seattle did not leave until 3:30PM. Yvonne is not able to easily sleep on flights so I knew she would not be a happy camper when we arrived in Istanbul and would be facing that long layover, even though we had access to a business class lounge. I did a bit of research and found that the new Istanbul airport had a hotel located on the air-side (after security) of the terminal where we could book a “day room” to get several hours of sleep in real beds and shower before catching the connecting flight. I had a bit of a problem finding the hotel (had to ask several locals for directions) but once there, we were able to get a good 6 hours of sleep, and a shower before visiting what turned out to be the most elaborate Business Class lounge we have ever seen! It had a “Wow” factor, with multiple freshly made food offerings and relaxing seating. I almost hated to leave! The lounge overlooked the main terminal area that reminded us of the Forum at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. It offered an opportunity to shop in every high end designer shop you could imagine, along with dozens of restaurants and bars. It is quite a glitzy airport!

Thankfully, the rest of the trip home was uneventful, and our luggage arrived with us! There were no other flights landing when we did so getting through immigration/customs in the USA was quick.  Thus ended what had become the longest cruise we have ever taken and my quest to visit 100 countries of the world. Time will tell how many more countries I might be able to add to my list before my travel days end.

Epilogue: This is not a cruise for everyone and not an itinerary that one would likely repeat.  Visiting some of the third world countries we did makes me appreciate what we have and living where we do.

Normally we travel with friends and I was a bit concerned that traveling alone would be a lonesome endeavor. Surprisingly, the cruise line made it easy to meet and dine with other similar people traveling alone. We met some very interesting like-minded travelers from around the world.

A parting travel comment from an anonymous source: “Travel. As much as you can. As far as you can. As long as you can. Life’s not meant to be lived in one place.”….need I say more!

 

December 5, 2022: Cape Town, South Africa- Our Last Stop

December 5, 2022: Cape Town, South Africa- Our Last Stop


Yesterday we were told we would be three hours late in arriving at Cape Town, originally scheduled for 1 PM. This morning the captain said the sea/wind conditions had moderated overnight so that we will only be about 1.5 hours late. We have been on 49 ocean and river cruises and this is the first time we have not met our expected arrival time. It is not a big deal for us….we are on vacation.

Today was the big day to trade in our Regent Reward points for free Regent products. Turns out I had accumulated 100 points so not only was I able to get my rain jacket I had enough to claim a golf hat, a key chain and a bookmark. Do I need them? No, but it was the thrill of the hunt!

We chose to spend part of our time before reaching port to repack our suitcases as we will be leaving the ship tomorrow morning.

As soon as we landed we were told we would need to leave the ship and have the local immigration people check our papers, after which we simply reboarded the ship until our scheduled tours left.

We have been in Cape Town before as part of a safari trip and therefore have seen the major attractions in the area. One of the tours offered on this trip was a “Sundowner on Signal Hill”, something we had not experienced so it was an easy choice. We left late in the afternoon and were bused to the tall hill overlooking the city where tables loaded with snacks and bubbly awaited us as we took in the magnificent sights and watched the day gradually turn into the evening. Leaving Signal Hill as the sun worked its way into the sea we drove along the seashore, passing several high end enclaves of homes that rival anything we see here in the USA. In my opinion this tour was one of the best of the trip and was a wonderful farewell to the cruise. For those of you who have never been to Cape Town, it is more than worthy of a visit. It is truly a beautiful city and region.

There was no live show this evening. For those interested the ship offered a viewing of Top Gun-Maverick in the main theater. Since we had seen this movie we passed and simply completed our packing. Because you are requested to put your luggage outside your door by 11PM on the last night of a cruise the challenge is to remember to leave out the clothes you will need in the morning to leave the ship! Some thought and planning is required!

Tomorrow morning we expect to leave the ship around 9AM since our flight does not leave until 6:30 PM I made arrangements for a private tour through www.Travelbylocals.com, an organization we have used in the past, with a plan to be dropped at the airport after the tour.

Steps for the day: 8,889.

December 4, 2022: Last Day at Sea

December 4, 2022: Last Day at Sea


This will be our last day at sea as we will soon reach our final destination, Cape Town, South Africa. It was another “bumpy night” as the fairly stiff winds have created fairly large waves which are hampering our progress. In fact when the captain gave his morning report he said that we have been experiencing a moderate gale” because the wind speed was 30-35 knots (35-40 mph), coming directly at us from the south. As a result he said we are currently 3 hours behind our normal schedule and will probably arrive 3 hours late into Cape Town. We have been on about 40 cruises and have never faced arriving that late.

It was another quiet day at sea. Yvonne is nearing the completion of reading her 4th book while on board and I continue my quest to earn enough Regent Reward points to get my ultimate gift- the converted Regent rain jacket!


There is a French specialty restaurant on board but there is no French onion soup on its menu.  That baffles me. I am fond of it and look forward to having some. It does occasionally appears on the lunch menu in the main dining room, and today was the day, so I voted we have lunch there. We did and my wish was fulfilled.

Lately cruise lines have encouraged talented staff members to put on a show for the guests. This usually occurs near the end of the cruise and today was the day, with their show (called Krew Kapers) slated as a pre-dinner event. It is usually a nice event with talented people performing and today was no exception. We had singers and dancers showing off their talents.

A special dinner was offered in the main dining room this evening because we are nearing the end of our cruise.

The evening entertainment was the final show put on by the singers and dancers of the Production Staff called ” Rockin Soul”, featuring songs by Tiny Turner, Carole King, Aretha Franklin, Alabama, and The Who- our kind of music! It indeed was a rockin time!

Tomorrow we reach our final destination, the beautiful city of Cape Town, South Africa.