Browsed by
Author: cjbishop@yahoo.com

May 8, 2025: Onward to Uzbekistan!

May 8, 2025: Onward to Uzbekistan!

Our visit to Bishkek was over, simply an overnight stay, as we have an early morning flight to Osh, the second largest city that lies in the southern part of Kyrgyzstan. We had been warned in our pre-trip literature that there would be a charge for any luggage that weighed more than 33 pounds.Furkat said not to worry, MIR would pay for any overage. Kudos to MIR! Our flight left at 8AM so we had to leave the hotel at 6AM. MIR arranged for us to have a boxed breakfast bag available when we left the hotel. The airport required two security checks. When entering the terminal you had to remove your shoes and put them on the X-ray belt with your luggage. Later on you went through another security check but you did not have to remove your shoes that time. Weird?

Osh dates back to the 8th century BC. It was an important area for silk production and a key stop along the Silk Road. It lies on the edge of the Fergana Valley, an important agricultural area of Kyrgyzstan. It also is quite close to Uzbekistan, our next stop. The city of Osh has a population of 455,000 people, consisting mostly of Kyrgyz and Uzbeks.

Our first stop was a visit to Sulayman (also spelled Sulaiman) Sacred mountain, a holy Islam site where the prophet Sulayman is said to be buried. Sulayman is the Islamic story of King Solomon. It is also the site where Babur, a 14th century Muslim prophet who founded the Mughal Dynasty in India, came when he was 14 for forty days of fasting and meditation (called a chilla). The site is a UNESCO World Heritage site and historians think it might be the mid-point of the famed Silk Road. It is often visited by pilgrims from around the world. Indeed there were people there when we visited that morning.

From there we visited a local private (350 students) school in Osh where three students gave us a tour of their school (students gone already) and answered questions about their schooling. Their English was quite good. The most common language spoken in the country is Russian because of their past relationships.

We had an earlier than normal lunch in a private home with a typical meal of multiple salads, bread, soup, a meat course and fruit. I was impressed with the quantity and quality of the vegetables and soup. It was something I did not expect to find in this part of the world.

After lunch we continued our journey. The border crossing went smoothly, taking only about 25 minutes and by 1 PM we were in Uzbekistan.

By 4PM we had arrived in the city of Fergana (also spelled Ferghana or Farg’ona) where we stayed in a “funky” 1950s hotel where  the decor reminded me of my grandmother’s home. The water was hot and the AC worked so I had no complaints!

Steps for the day:  7,181- respectable!

May 7, 2025: More Exploration of Kyrgyzstan.

May 7, 2025: More Exploration of Kyrgyzstan.

We are leaving the lake region and headed to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, but will be doing some sightseeing along the way. Near the Baytur resort is a fairly new (2019) small museum called the Museum of Nomadic Civilizations where we made our first stop of the day. It was surprisingly very nice as it was compact with plenty of English postings so we could understand what we were seeing. The museum contains artifacts and displays that partain to the history and culture of the ancient  Turkic and Altaic nomadic peoples. The displays range from clothing, jewelry, carpets tools weapons and even musical instruments. Everyone seemed to like our one hour visit.

Our next stop was at the Burana Tower, one of the few remaining minarets/watchtowers on the old Silk Road. There was a 9th century town ( Balasagun) that surrounded the tower, but it has disappeared. The tower was built in the 11th century and was originally 45 m (148 ft) tall. A major earthquake in the 15th century destroyed the upper half of the tower and the resulting tower is now 25 m (82 ft) tall. Even so it is an imposing structure.

MIR seems to like to break up meals by offering some in private homes and today was our first such experience with that and it turned out to be a huge success as once the meal was done we were entertained by a local four piece musical group that played local music on traditional musical instruments. It was delightful. Leaving the home we got to interact with other (i.e.older) family members who were demonstrating making a major product of Kyrgyzstan-felt and its associated products. Of course there was an opportunity to buy some souvenirs if we so chose. I felt obligated to help the local economy by buying one of the homemade products.

We were off to a nearby field where we got to experience a local sporting event called “kupkari or ulak” which has existed in Central Asia since the days of Genghis Khan (13th Century). Teams of horsemen compete against each other by trying to pick up a goat carcass (weighing 30-40lbs) and tossing it into a bin at the end of the field. Think of it perhaps like polo but with a dead goat instead of a ball.  It can be a fairly dangerous sport. You can learn more about the sport here:

https://www.visituzbekistan.co/articles/apof2wo3qqhkkpzuy4fqtkwuwzbasy

Today two local teams put on an exhibition of the sport for us. It was quite a sight, something I have never seen before.

By this time it was after 3:30 PM and we left for our destination for the night- Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, arriving there after 6 PM. Dinner was at the hotel, the Hyatt Regency (very nice) and early to be as we have an early morning flight to catch.

Steps for the day:  only 5498. There was a lot of bus riding.

May 6, 2025: Exploring Kyrgyzstan.

May 6, 2025: Exploring Kyrgyzstan.

Kyrgyzstan is a relatively small landlocked country (7 million population) surrounded by the Tian Shan and Pamir mountain ranges. Visually it is stunning! Although there are over 130 ethnic groups represented the vast majority are native Kyrgyks (78%) followed by Uzbeks (14%) and Russians (4%).  Why so many ethnic groups?  It turns out this area is on the main Silk Road trail so everyone passed through here at one time or another. Many stayed. The primary religions are Islam, followed by Russian Orthodox.

Trivia for the day:  Kyrgyk is derived from a Turkic word meaning “we are 40” which is believed to refer to the 40 clans brought under a unified control by the ruler, Manas. The Persian suffix word -stan means “place of”. Now you know!

Our hotel is on lake Issyk-Kul, the 2nd largest high altitude lake (5280 ft) in the world (after Lake Titicaca in Bolivia). It is huge: 113 miles long, 37 miles wide with a maximum depth of 2192 ft. The water is somewhat saline but it does have fish. Supposedly there is no outlet to the lake. The water temperature does not get beyond 70 degrees in the summer so you have to be pretty hardy to swim in it.  Even so this is a very popular summer resort area for people.

Our day began with a short boat ride on the lake. There was only one other active boat there, also full of tourists. Surprisingly there are not many boats on the lake at any time as the authorities dissuade their use to keep the area pristine.

From there we drove to the nearby park where there are some 1200 petroglyphs that date back some 2500 years.

It was then on to the Semenov gorge (also known as the Kyrchyn Gorge) where we stopped at a local yurt for lunch. We were told we would have to remove our shoes and sit on the floor.  I was a bit skeptical about being served a “local” lunch; however we sat down to a simply marvelous lunch that featured local caught grilled trout and a variety of salads and locally made bread. Best meal of the trip so far!

After lunch we went on a short “hike” ( I would label it as a walk) in the gorge. The gorge was a lush green with snow capped mountains in the background. The area reminded me of Colorado.

The last activity of the day was an encounter with a local  “burkutchu”, an golden eagle hunter who brought his birds and gave us a lengthy demonstration of how these magnificent birds are trained to hunt. This form of hunting has been used here for thousands of years. It was a fascinating experience.

We were back at the hotel a little after 5 PM after spending a great day exploring this lovely area. Most of us felt this was the best day of the trip so far.

Dinner was a buffet at the hotel; there was nothing worth taking a photo of.

Steps for the day:  9382.

 

May 5, 2025: On Our Way to Kyrgyzstan, the Next “Stan” on Our List!

May 5, 2025: On Our Way to Kyrgyzstan, the Next “Stan” on Our List!

We are headed to Kyrgyzstan today but will be sightseeing as we go, with our first stop to explore an area called Charyn Canyon, which is sometimes referred to as the “little brother of the Grand Canyon”. We will see how true that may be. Charyn Canyon is about 200 km east of Almaty, so it is closer to the Chinese border( ~480 km). The canyon itself is about 154 km (96 miles) long. It was 84 degrees when we arrived but luckily there was a good breeze so the temperature was not a problem. Once there we were given the opportunity to take one of two trails in the area. The first was a 1 km trail along the top of the canyon to two viewpoints. The second option was a trail down to the bottom of the canyon which was longer and had more elevation to deal with. Everyone chose the leisurely walk.

 

I returned to the parking lot at the assigned time to find our “picnic” lunch laid out under a pergola. It felt good sitting for awhile and the sandwiches were freshly made. All was well!

Refreshed and fed we began our long drive to Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan which included our first border crossing-from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan. We were warned to make sure we took no pictures anywhere near the border. The border crossing procedure goes as follows. You stop and get your luggage off the bus. You walk through the Kazakh border where first a guard checks your passport. You then go into an office where the Kazakh passport people “check you out” of the country with a picture and a passport stamp. Another guard checks your passport as you exit the country. Next you walk some distance in the neutral no-man’s land between borders and check in at Kyrgyzk border where a guard looks at your passport and I assume looks for the exit passport stamp from the previous country. You then proceed into a building to check in with the Kyrgyzk immigration people who also take your photo and stamp your passport. You are then free to walk across the border where another army personnel checks your passport to make sure you were cleared by immigration. There is a lot of looking at your passport!  Depending on how many people are trying to get through the timing to do all this can vary greatly. In this case we were fairly lucky and we cleared the border in about 35 minutes. And once we crossed the border we were met with a new bus and a local guide, Firhad, who happened to have studied a year at U of Texas. His English was excellent and he turned out to be a wealth of knowledge about his country, Kyrgyzstan. He would be with us the entire time we are in Kyrgyzstan. We boarded our new ride and continued our journey.

The driving process always includes regular scheduled “happy stops” along the way to stretch our legs and visit the local bathrooms, which so far have been fairly decent, but we were warned some might not be western style toilets and the ladies always knew to carry tissue with them. Most are at gas stations so we had a chance to grab some snacks if we chose. We did have an unusual one this trip as we pulled up to what appeared to be a commercial business and it turned out to be a school dedicated to sports training. They were gracious and allowed us to use their bathrooms.

Once in Kyrgyzstan we noticed a change in the landscape. It was more mountainous (90% of the country are mountains) and evergreen trees. The highest peak is over 23,000 feet.  It was really lovely and several of our fellow travelers remarked on how pretty it was. From the semi-mountainous area we next entered what is called the “greenlands” which was obviously agricultural, and again very pretty. By the way the government owns all the land but people can be granted long term leases to build a home or start an agricultural endeavor, or simply plant a family garden.

There was major road upgrades being made as we worked our way to the lake, resulting in us bouncing along on unpaved roads for over 50 miles! The ride was not bad but it did slow us down, so we did not arrive at our hotel (Baytur Resort & Spa) until 6:30PM, later than expected. The good news was that it is a very new hotel right on the lake and we will be spending two nights here.

Steps for the day: 9764, mainly due to the hike at Charyn Canyon.

May 4, 2025: Touring Almaty.

May 4, 2025: Touring Almaty.

It is expected to be sunny and 77 today as we tour the highlights of Almaty. We leave at 9AM and it should be a busy day. Our first stop was at Liberty Square to see the Independence monument and display of important milestone events in Kazakhstan history.

Then it was on to the Central State Museum where there are exhibits that detail the development of Kazakhstan and its people. A main attraction was a visit to heavily guarded  “Gold Room” which houses gold objects from as far back as 800BCE. Needless to say we were closely watched so we would not attempt to take pictures of the gold jewelry and artifacts on display there. We did have some time to view other exhibits that describe the life and culture of the people who live here. One of the other important exhibits was the  “Golden Man” a warrior’s armor made of 4000 gold pieces. That we were able to photograph.

Onward we traveled to Kok-Tobe, a 3500 foot hill that is reached by an aerial tramway where a sort of amusement park is located. It does provide a great view of the city and surroundings; however, today there was a bit of haze in the area which limited the view.

From there we traveled to the outskirts of Almaty to see an exhibit of traditional Kazakh falconry, listen to a musical performance of Kazakh music played on traditional Kazakh instruments and have a authentic Kazakh style lunch.

After the animal show in walked a small ensemble of musicians wearing authentic costumes with musical instruments used in this part of the world. They proceeded to give us a short musical concert of traditional Kazakh music.

Late in the afternoon we went back to the city to visit the large Panfilov Park to view some war memorials and the famous wood Ascension (also called Zenkov)  Russian Orthodox Cathedral, built in the 1907 without the use of nails! I must admit it was pretty spectacular.

Near the cathedral are several war memorials, dedicated to those lost in various wars over the decades. The most important one is dedicated to the 28 soldiers of the Panfilov regiment that thwarted an attack on Moscow by the Germans in November, 1941.

The visit to the park ended with a brief stop at a small museum dedicated to musical instruments, with a special emphasis on the popular Kazakh two -stringed instrument called the “dombra”.

The final stop was at the local bazaar called the “Green Market” which sports a green roof and happens to be open on Sundays. It is mostly a food market although there is a section where all sorts of clothing items are sold.

We returned to the hotel late in the day and because of the late lunch most people skipped dinner, including myself. Tomorrow we leave on our fairly long overland trip the next “stan” on the list: Kyrgyzstan.

During the day we learned a variety of information about the area.
-There are 16 mosques in the city but they are not very obvious. Islam is the major religion but I never heard a call for prayer. There are 17 different religions.

-It can be hot in the summer, often reaching 30-35 degrees C, sometimes even 40 degrees. And winters can bring temperatures of -15 to -20 degreees C.

-Kazakhstan is one of few countries that has snow leopards. They are protected and it is estimated there are about 850 living in the mountains.They live about 3000 meters!

-Earthquakes and slides can be a problem for Almaty.

-Swetlana said the most expensive housing apartments cost $4000/sq meter ($400/sq ft) which is expensive for here.

Steps for the day:  12,397. No wonder I was tired at the end of the day!

 

May 3, 2025: First Stop-Almaty, Kazakhstan

May 3, 2025: First Stop-Almaty, Kazakhstan

A bit of trivia: Kazakhstan is the largest totally landlocked country in the world. By land mass it is the 9th largest country. The total population is about 22-25  million people so the population density is one of the lowest in the world.

Almaty was  an oasis on the old Silk Road and was originally called Almatu. It was destroyed in 1211 by the Mongols (probably Genghis Khan). Almaty’s  name means “the place with apples” and scientists believe this might be where apples originated. Almaty dominates the local region’s economy because of its oil, gas, iron and silver. It was part of the Soviet Union until its breakup in 1991. Ethnic Kazakhs make up  71.3 percent of the population and ethnic Russians are 14.6 percent. The majority of the people are Muslim.

Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan with a population of over two million people. It was the capital of Kazakhstan until 1997 when the capital was moved to Astana. It is a very cosmopolitan city and still the center for culture, economy, commerce and finance. It’s elevation is 2300-3000 feet. Almaty actually made a bid for the 2022 Winter Olympics and the city is considered an international hub for winter sports.

After check in at the hotel we were free for the day as it was felt that most people needed to catch up on their missed sleep. We agreed to meet our tour leader, Furkat Pulatov, at 5 PM to kick off our formal tour.

I had breakfast, showered,  worked on this blog, took a short nap  and went for an afternoon walk in the area. It was 70 degrees and a beautiful sunny day in Almaty. Svetlana said yesterday it rained all day and snowed in the mountains. What a difference a day makes!

Observations of my walk:  the city is very clean; I saw no garbage anywhere. There is greenery everywhere. There are pedestrian-only walkways lined with trees. There are electric scooters everywhere.  Cars are new and clean and they drive on the right side of the road. And they do honk their horns, unlike Japan! It seems to be a modern, dynamic city.

At 5PM all travelers gathered for a short meeting with our team leader, Furkat Pulatov, who briefed us on some of the details and logistics of the trip. Our group has 16 members (all from the USA) and I am one of four singles (3 men, 1 lady). There are two ladies who travel together and the rest are couples.

For dinner I joined a health care couple (from Seattle) and a gentlemen from the Bay Area and walked to a recommended nearby restaurant that featured food and wine from the country of Georgia. It was such a pleasant evening we dined outside, but surprisingly by the time we finished it was a bit nippy (altitude?). By the way the food was spectacular and modestly priced.

Tomorrow Svetlana will lead us on a tour of the local sights and highlights of Almaty. Our tour begins!

Steps for the day: 7918. I expect that number will climb as the tour proceeds.