Our main destination for the day was to visit the largest island in Chile, Chiloé Island, and visit the penguin colony there which hosts both Humboldt  and Magellanic penguins. Because there is a several hour drive and ferry ride involved we needed to leave at 7:30AM. The weather had turned and rain showers were expected so we were advised to bring our rain gear. It was not raining when we left but as we drove north to catch the ferry at Pargua it began. However by the time we boarded the ferry it had already stopped and surprisingly the rest of the day was sunny and pleasant.

It is a quick 30 minute ferry ride from the mainland to Chiloé Island on small capacity ferries that run every 10-15 minutes. Chiloé Island is about 180 km long, 50 km wide and the home to about 180,000 people. Peoples living in the northern part of the island then to be farmers while the southern population focuses on fishing. The Spaniards first settled there in the 16th century; the city of Castro was established in 1567. The Jesuits showed up at the beginning of the 17th century and started building wooden churches throughout the island. There were expelled in 1767 but the Franciscans who then came continued the practice. As a result there are over 150 such wooden churches with the traditional shingle facade there;  they are ranked as UNESCO heritage sites.

We drove to the west coast of the island to Punihuil Cove where the breeding grounds for the two types of penguins exist. Since the 1990s the government has established a strict protocol for viewing the breeding site, limiting the number of boats that can carry passengers near the grounds. Thirty five passenger zodiacs and a unique boarding procedure makes it an easy “tour” for the visitors. It does need a staff of strong, able-bodied men to load and launch the boats. The actual ride is limited to 30-35 minutes and boats leave every 15 minutes to ensure only a limited number of boats near the penguins at any given time to minimize stressing the birds. I was impressed with the whole process. There was a naturalist on board who pointed out the different species of penguins, birds and ducks that were in the area. I am stil not sure I can tell the difference between the two species of penguins. As you cannot really get too close to the animals and with a moving, rocking boat the photos are not the greatest, but the experience was top-notch!

With all that salt air our appetites were primed for what happened next. Vantage arranged for us to experience a traditional, home-hosted feast called a “curanto”- a shellfish, sausage meat, potato medley cooked underground in a stone lined pit. I likened it to the Chilean version of a luau. We drove to a local home on the island where the luncheon was served. A round of pisco sours and some homemade potato bread with honey wetted our appetites until the meal was ceremonially uncovered and served with wine. Needless to say it was delicious, especially the mussels! The bus was pretty quiet as we drove back to catch the ferry home- naps were the norm.

We were back to the hotel by 5:30 and free for the evening. I certainly was not hungry for more food but I did walk the few blocks into town in search of the apple strudel one of the couples raved about. I found it and it was a good as grandma used to make. It was a sunny Friday night and the locals were out in force, walking the waterfront, listening to music from street performers, and shopping in the artisan markets in town.

We leave tomorrow for Punta Arenas, a two-hour flight south of here. This is sure one big, long skinny country!