May 16, 2019: Experiencing the Magnificence of Loire Valley Châteaus

May 28, 2019 cjbishop@yahoo.com

Sunny and bright, but cool (10 degrees C – 50 degrees F) this morning. After the heat and humidity of trips to Asia, this is heavenly! Chantal tells us that it is often cloudy and rainy in this part of France so we are enjoying wonderful weather. We will be visiting two of the most spectacular chateaus in the Loire Valley today: Château de Chenonceau and Château de Villandry. Most of the Loire Vally chateaus reflect the Renaissance style of architecture and were built in the 16th century. Francis 1 was the king of France at the time, and Henry VIII was the king in England. Leonardo De Vinci was even living in the area and died in the Loire Valley in 1519.

Château au de Chenonceau was built by a banker, over a period of 8 years. The original owner died shortly after its completion and the château was conscripted by King Francis1. Francis was a womanizer and died at the age of 52, likely from “the Italian disease”. His son, Henry, succeeded him and inherited Chenonceau . Henry was married at the time to Catherine De Medici (the famous Italian family). But it was complicated as Henry also had a mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who was 20 years older than him. Catherine loved Château Chenonceau but Henry gave it to Diane! Surprisingly the three of them lived together at Chenonceau, a French menage-a-trois. Henry died at age of 40, accidentally killed while jousting, and Catherine got her revenge by then banning Diane from Chenonceau. Surprisingly, Catherine gave Diane an alternative château and she lived comfortably until dying at the age of 60. The stories surrounding these women and Henry are sordid enough that you might want to delve more into them on your own.

A bit of trivia: Chateaus were often unoccupied and only used on occasion by the king. The king (and his entourage which could be as large as 15,000) would stay in a château for a few days and then move on.

Chateau Chenonceau is now privately owned. It is the 2nd most visited château in France; only Versailles gets more visitors. A local guide took us through the gardens and château, explaining what we were seeing and the history behind the château. It turns out there was a lot of mystery, intrigue, and sex involved over the centuries involving the king(s), his wife and mistress(es)! This château is magnificent and certainly worth its reputation.

The long “driveway” to the entrance of the chateau.

This sign was at the entrance to the Chateau and says “I am a guard cat”

Part of the “kitchen” garden where vegetables were grown.

Stopping to smell the roses. Yes, they were fragrant.

The stables and pond at Château de Chenonceau.

This is a pigeon house. Your wealth was determined by the size of your pigeon house.

One of the many flower beds at the chateau.

The engraved front door of Château de Chenonceau.

Entrance to Château de Chenonceau. The tower the right is from an earlier castle on the site.

One of dozens of flower arrangements, which are changed out every few days with other flowers grown at the Chateau.

Catherine de Medici, the wife of Henry II. She married him when she was 14.

Diane, the mistress of Henry II and recipient of Château de Chenonceau.

Elaborate furniture with hidden drawers to store valuables.

One of the bedrooms in the chateau. Note the hanging tapestries, which appear everywhere in chateaus.

This is known as the “black room” where Louise, the wife of Henry III, grieved after her husband was assassinated. It is indeed dark and dreary.

The top level of the corridor over the water is now an art gallery. The lower level served as a hospital during WWI.

Another magnificent bouquet in the chateau.

The kitchen in the lower level of the chateau, actually situated at or below the water level of the river.

The steps at the river where supposedly Diane bathed in the cold water every morning, thus retaining the beauty she was noted for.

Diane’s gardens, which were larger and more elegant!

Classic picture of Château de Chenonceau showing how it extends over the Cher River.

Quick lunch of vegetable soup, strawberries and a baguette.

By 1PM we were on the road again headed to yet another famous château, Château de Villandry to see its famous gardens. Since it was about 45 minutes away we were able to rest a bit (i.e. nap) after the morning “stroll”.

I have seen gardens in the past but I have never seen one like the one at Château de Villandry! It is an OMG sight. There are a series of manicured gardens featuring kitchen produce. There are a series of gardens dedicated to the themes of love, music and religion. There is a boxwood maze, a water garden and a herb garden. All are designed symmetrically in a formal manner, and planted with different flowers multiple times of the year. They are a work of art.

The château dates back to the 16th century, built by Jean Le Breton. During the 18th century French Revolution the property was confiscated, and in the early 19th century Emperor Napoleon acquired it for his brother. In 1906 Joachim Carvallo purchased the property and poured an enormous amount of time, money and devotion into repairing it and creating the extremely beautiful gardens that exist today.

The manor house at Château de Villandry.

This was the stable, but is now the residence of the owners when they come to visit.

The enormous gardens of Château de Villandry.

Note the seasonal flowers starting to bloom inside the boxwood hedges. They are replanted multiple times each year.

Another view of the gardens at Château de Villandry.You would have to come multiple times each year to appreciate their splendor.

On the right are the decorative gardens; on the left are the kitchen gardens.

One of several swans in the large garden pond.

The kitchen garden with the medieval village church in the background.

An ice cream break after viewing the gardens.

Tonight is our “farewell dinner” because we return to Paris tomorrow and there was an “optional” event planned for that night. There was a pre-dinner cocktail party hosted by Chantal to thank us for traveling with Insight, followed by a three course dinner served in the beautiful dining room at the hotel.