Those of us who were afraid of missing something left our hotel with Furkat at 5:15AM to watch the sunrise here in Khiva. About 350 people still live in the inner town called “Itchan Kala “. It is protected by 8-10 meter high walls that are 5-6 meters thick. The original walls date back to the 10th century; the present walls from the late 17th century. We walked through the town to reach the east gate and quietly awaited the sun to rise and provide us with some great photo opportunities. We were not disappointed!
Walking to the Ata Darwaza gate near our hotel.
The streets were empty.
Waiting for the sun!
The walls extend for 6250 meters around the inner city.
The moon and the city wall.
Here comes the sun!
5:46AM
5:47AM
5:50AM
5:51AM
Inside the city walls. This is a staircase to climb to the top of the wall. I did not.
Some people sleep with their door open with only a curtain to prevent entry. Must be pretty safe here.
The Islam Khodja Minaret, 50.5 meters high, was built in 1908-1910. It is next to the madrasah of the same name.. the decor supposedly represents the four seasons and the 12 months.
A lone morning dove enjoying the solitude before the crowds arrive again.
The gate leading us back to our hotel.
Our side was still is in the shade when we returned to the hotel for breakfast.
The main lobby of our hotel.
Some trivia for the day: Legend says that clay from this area was used by Muhammad in buildings in Medina. Another legend says that Shem, the son of Noah, built the sacred water channel of Khiva, known as the Xeyvak Canal.
It was then back to the hotel for a 6:30 breakfast, after which we headed out on our official tour of Itchan Kala, the old part of Khiva. The old town contains some 50 important monuments and 250 homes that date from the 18-19th centuries. The good news was that the predicted high temperature for the day was expected to be 82 degrees, a more normal temperature for this time of the year.
Thankfully the temperatures will be more normal today.
View of the city wall from our hotel front door. We are that close.
Typical homes in the old town.
The bath house (Bath of Anush Khan) built by his father, Abul Ghazi Khan in 1657.
A very unique door.
This is one of the nine courtyards of Toshhovli Palace, the Stone Palace, built for the Khan of Khiva in 1830-41. It has 250 rooms!
Ceiling in one of the rooms in the Stone Palace.
The king’s chamber.
Another decorated room in the palace. His four legitimate wives lived in this part of the palace with him.
Inside the Juma mosque originally built in the 10th century and rebuilt in 1788. There are 212 wooden pillars in the mosque.
One of the carved pillars in the Juma mosque.
Door to the Juma mosque.
Hard to be interested in these since it is 82 degrees today!
Ladies out shopping.
The Kaltaminor minaret(29 meters high) was supposed to be 110 meters high but the construction stopped in 1855 when the Khan died.
We finally see a real camel!
A main courtyard of the palace area.
The morning was full of surprises, starting with coming upon a trio of women who sang and played musical instruments, followed by a private show for our group by an family of high wire walkers.
The ladies trio we heard playing when we entered the Stone Palace.
Look closely and you can get a glimpse of her gold teeth.
Clicking her fingers to a musical beat. We could not replicate the sounds she made with her fingers.
The small statues that are popular as souviners.
These young girls wanted to practice their English with us.
The entertaining acrobatic family.
Impressive acrobatic wire walkers.
And it got riskier!
OMG!
Do not try this at home! The youngster (on top) cannot be much older than 7-8 years old.
Besides acrobatics they have musical talents.
It is very common to find small museums covering varying topics housed in the old madrasahs that have been repurposed. Today we toured one that focused on the history of money and another about the history of important people of Khiva.
An extensive display of the history of money in Uzbekistan.
Modern day paper money.
Diorama of how coinage was made.
This 9th century mathematician gave us the names for algorithm and algebra. This was one of many pictures and descriptions of famous people of Khiva in the museum of Khiva history.
Lunch was again at another elegant restaurant overlooking the city, followed by a visit to the shops of woodworking artists.
Ceiling in our dining room at the Ayvon Zarafshon restaurant where we had lunch.
Decor inside the restaurant.
Open air dining with views of the city beyond.
A sort of egg roll as an appetizer.
Mixed vegetable salad.
Beets are a popular salad ingredient.
All sorts of meat and vegetable filled dumplings to choose from. I was surprised that they resembled Asian dumplings.
We ended the formal touring in late afternoon after visiting a master woodworking shop (wood carving has always been a traditional specialty of Khiva) and a mausoleum with a plan to later meet for dinner at 6PM.
Entrance to wood workers enclave.
Massive hand carved doors on display.
Examples of wood carving skills in the museum.
Inlaid carved stool.
The Pahlavon Mahmud mausoleum built in 1664 initially for Pahlavon Mahmud, a famous poet and revered patron of the city. Other khans were later buried here also.
Code of ethics for visitors.
The tomb of Pahlovian Mahmud, the patron of Khiva.
Beautiful interior of the mausoleum.
Another tomb of a khan in the mausoleum.
For those interested Furkat suggested that one can climb to the top of the largest minaret in the town. Only the energetic Suki took him up on the suggestion. Luckily she kindly shared some of the pictures she took on her climb so I can share them with you here.
The 51 meter high Khodla minaret that Suki climbed.
Suki, a pharmacy professor from New Orleans, sacrificed her body by walking to the top of the minaret to take photos which she kindly shared with us.
It is a narrow passageway.
The viewing windows at the top of the minaret.
These are photos taken by Suki from the top of the minaret
Before we left for dinner at a local restaurant we were entertained by yet another band and dancers at the hotel. Then it was off to what turned out to be a spectacular outdoor rooftop dinner overlooking the old town where the food and scenery was marvelous. Timing was such that we were there for sunset so today was really special in that we saw both sunrise and sunset in Khiva. Khiva is even more magical than Bukhara!
A family music, singing and dance group entertaining us before dinner.
Note the gold teeth.
Playing a flute.
Big brother and little brother showing some dance moves.
Cute statue of children in the main plaza
The rooftop restaurant, Terrassa II, where we are having dinner.
Views from the restaurant.
Family style salad
Enough shish kebab to feed a large family!
The city gleamed in the setting sun.
Sunset over the city walls.
The city turns magical at night.
It was quite a day in this ancient city that is over 2500 years old!
Ceiling in our dining room at the Ayvon Zarafshon restaurant where we had lunch.
Open air dining with views of the city beyond.
A sort of egg roll as an appetizer.
Beets are a popular salad ingredient.
Mixed vegetable salad.
All sorts of meat and vegetable filled dumplings to choose from. I was surprised that they resembled Asian dumplings.
