May 21, 2025: Exploring Ashgabat and Its Surroundings.

May 21, 2025: Exploring Ashgabat and Its Surroundings.

It turned out to be a very busy day as we toured the local area. Our first stop was to an ancient site located not far (18km) from the city- the ruins of Nisa, the former capital of the Parthian Kingdom. The site dates back to the 3rd century BCE. It was abandoned in the 1st century BCE when hit with an earthquake.

From there on our return to the city we stopped to visit the large mosque and mausoleum of Saparmurat Niyazov, the first president of the independent Turkmenistan, who ruled from 1985-2006. He also gave himself the name of “Turkmenbashi (Head of Turkmen)”. The mosque, built in 2002-2004, is known as Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque and it is one of the largest in Central Asia. It can hold 10,000 worshipers. Niyazov was a bit notorious as he wrote a two volume book called the “Ruhnama”, claiming it as the second most important book after the Quran. He mandated it to be taught in all the schools. Adjacent to the mosque is a mausoleum where he is buried.

Our next stop was back in Ashgabat where we visited the National Museum of Turkmenistan, a huge complex dedicated to telling the detailed history of the area and its people. It is an impressive display.  We were led by a local guide for an all too short visit to the museum. I was amazed at all the historical artifacts on display there and would have enjoyed spending a lot more time studying the history of the area. One fascinating thing that occurred during our visit was a chance to meet the US ambassador to Turkmenistan, Elizabeth Rood, who happened to be at the museum while we were there. She stopped by to have a brief chat with our group.

From there we stopped to visit the Russian Bazaar for a brief visit. During the era of Russian rule it was used exclusively by Russian elite. Now it is open to all. It was not as extensive or busy as other bazaars we had visited.

Lunch was followed by another trip outside the city to visit a horse breeding farm devoted to the famous Akhal-Teke horses, arguably the oldest cultured breed of horses in the world. Supposedly they lent their genes to the development of both the Arabian and American quarter horse breeds.

As we drove to and from the sites we visited we continued to see the elaborate stunning white marble buildings in the city and noted the absence of people! I joked that the city was really a Hollywood movie set and not a real city.

Dinner brought yet another surprise as we were entertained by local dancers who performed a ritual wedding ceremony where we were encouraged to participate by dressing in local clothing  and joining in the dancing. It was a lot of fun.

The long day ended by driving through the city after dark to see the many lighted buildings before returning to our hotel.

Steps for the day: 10,588. Must have been that high because of he dancing at the wedding!

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