May 7, 2025: More Exploration of Kyrgyzstan.

May 7, 2025 cjbishop@yahoo.com

We are leaving the lake region and headed to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, but will be doing some sightseeing along the way. Near the Baytur resort is a fairly new (2019) small museum called the Museum of Nomadic Civilizations where we made our first stop of the day. It was surprisingly very nice as it was compact with plenty of English postings so we could understand what we were seeing. The museum contains artifacts and displays that partain to the history and culture of the ancient Turkic and Altaic nomadic peoples. The displays range from clothing, jewelry, carpets tools weapons and even musical instruments. Everyone seemed to like our one hour visit.

Our route for the day. Next stop : Bishkek.

Turns out nomads did not use it much as it hindered their movement.

Firhad explaining how the yurts were designed and assembled.

Manas was a legendary hero and his poem was passed down from generation to generation. They had no written language.

These look an awfully like American Indian sun catchers.

Tepees in Uzbekistan? They were abandoned in favor of yurts.

Traditional male Uzbek hat. It is peaked because Uzbekistan is mountainous so people would know where you are from.

Local “busker” trying to get tourists to pay to have picture taken with his golden eagle.

Our next stop was at the Burana Tower, one of the few remaining minarets/watchtowers on the old Silk Road. There was a 9th century town ( Balasagun) that surrounded the tower, but it has disappeared. The tower was built in the 11th century and was originally 45 m (148 ft) tall. A major earthquake in the 15th century destroyed the upper half of the tower and the resulting tower is now 25 m (82 ft) tall. Even so it is an imposing structure.

Modest house with an expensive fence and gate.

You own land, you build a fence, even though there is nothing to protect!

Furkat was good about having snacks as we rode. These are small chocolates.

Roadside onions.Agriculture is big here.

Scenery is changing. The greenery is gone.

Someone spent a lot of time placing these rocks to create this.

The Burana Tower, only half of its original height. It was built in the 11th century.

More bal bals (ancient headstones) are here.

MIR seems to like to break up meals by offering some in private homes and today was our first such experience with that and it turned out to be a huge success as once the meal was done we were entertained by a local four piece musical group that played local music on traditional musical instruments. It was delightful. Leaving the home we got to interact with other (i.e.older) family members who were demonstrating making a major product of Kyrgyzstan-felt and its associated products. Of course there was an opportunity to buy some souvenirs if we so chose. I felt obligated to help the local economy by buying one of the homemade products.

We walked into a private home and was greeted with this spread! We soon learned it would be common.

Our hostess and her husband. Note the peaked hat he wears.

Multiple salads, breads, appetizers, fresh yogurt filled the table

A local beer seemed like the right thing to have. They typically cost $3-4.

The main course. I was surprised to see pasta!

We were surprised by a local group who entertained us with traditional music and songs while we ate.

Members played different instruments including a juice harp, a flute and something I had no idea what it was! They also sang.

Multi-generational family and friends working on making felt and felt products.

Suki (in blue) has a German mother and she learned that this grandmother had taught German in school for decades. They had quite a chat-in German!

The lady I bought an item from. It was different colors than the one she is holding.

We were off to a nearby field where we got to experience a local sporting event called “kupkari or ulak” which has existed in Central Asia since the days of Genghis Khan (13th Century). Teams of horsemen compete against each other by trying to pick up a goat carcass (weighing 30-40lbs) and tossing it into a bin at the end of the field. Think of it perhaps like polo but with a dead goat instead of a ball. It can be a fairly dangerous sport. You can learn more about the sport here:

https://www.visituzbekistan.co/articles/apof2wo3qqhkkpzuy4fqtkwuwzbasy

Today two local teams put on an exhibition of the sport for us. It was quite a sight, something I have never seen before.

The kids are carrying the goat carcass out onto the playing field.

Showing us the object of the game- picking up this real goat carcass and racing it over the “goal line”.

Managing to grab the goat carcass. Now to try to make an escape.

And a breakaway to toss the goat into a large container! GOAL!

By this time it was after 3:30 PM and we left for our destination for the night- Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, arriving there after 6 PM. Dinner was at the hotel, the Hyatt Regency (very nice) and early to be as we have an early morning flight to catch.