It was going to be hot today (106 degrees) and Furkat suggested we start early, rest in the afternoon during the heat of the day, and resume sightseeing later in the day. No one objected.
Oh oh! It is going to be a bit of a scorcher today.
A simply amazing breakfast dining area.
Like eating in a private home.
Would you like an omelet for breakfast? Of course, I said.
Bukhara is the 7th largest city in Uzbekistan with a population of 280,000. The area was inhabited for over 5000 years. It was an important oasis on the Silk Road and it is an UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has preserved its ancient architecture and design to a larger extent than other cities in Uzbekistan. After breakfast we were off to see these historical sites.
A bit risky. We saw many of these small scale scooters buzzing around.
Another one of many Ferris wheels we have seen so far.
The very simple mausoleum of Ismail Samani built in the 9-10th century. It was rediscovered, buried in the sand, in the 20th century.
Interesting in that they are not sure who really is buried here. They believe it is Ismail (907) and his grandson, Nasr II (943).
An ancient version of “lego” ?
This is Chasma Ayub Kadamdjay, considered to be a holy spot. It was visited by a Koranic prophet, Ayub (Job in biblical version) who struck the ground with his staff and water from a spring emerged. They think he is buried here. The oldest part of the complex dates from the 12th century.
Description of Sardobas.
What the water reservoirs looked like.
Free water still today. Furkat said we should not drink it.
Description of the bath houses, that still exist in their culture.
Where the bath houses were located. There are still some and Furkat suggested we might want to visit one while here.
The Bolo Haouz Mosque, built in 1712.
The wooden columns were replaced in 1912.
Watching a local artist creating brass artwork.
Shukhov Tower was originally a water tower but now is a tourist attraction with restaurants and a viewing platform.
Then we headed to the major attraction in this area – the Ark of Citadel. It is a massive fortress, initially built in the 5th century (maybe even earlier) and occupied by the rulers (emirs) for over 1,000 years. It now houses museums and a smaller mosque. After a quick tour of the major areas Furkat let us wander on our own through the complex absorbing all it had to offer.
The Ark of Citadel, a massive fortress that dates back to 500 AD.
At the entrance to the Ark was some jail cells where people who the Emir did not like were placed for visitors to see as they entered. Moral: do not irritate the Emir!
The Throne Hall.
The Throne Hall where the Emir met people.
Terry, one of our fellow travelers decide to see what it would feel like being the Emir.
Hand made rugs for sale.
Outside the rear of the Ark. it was destroyed and rebuilt many times over its history.
The Ark overlooks the old part of Bukhara.
Looking back at the walls of the fortress.
We then went to the nearby infamous Zindon prison that was built in the 18th century. There are many stories about this prison and its use. In 1838 two British soldiers came on a diplomatic mission, managed to anger the Emir, who then threw them into this prison and ultimately had them executed. Moral: Do not anger the Emir!
It was hot already and the Zindon prison was a bit away so Furkat hired these golf carts to take us there rather than having to walk. Thanks, Furkat.
The Zindon prison located near the Ark.
One of the cells in the prison, where lesser prisoners were held.
The “bug pit” where the worst criminals are held. The only entry/exit to this deep hole is a 6 meter rope! The British soldiers were held here before being executed.
Weapons used by guards on inmates of the prison.
Weapons used by guards at the prison.
The Kalyan minaret was built in 1127
The Kalyan mosque dates back to the 15-16th century.
The lectern where the imam gives his sermon.
If you did not wear long pants today and you want to visit a mosque you can borrow a ”skirt/shawl” that usually is located by the mosque entry.
The Mir-i-Arab Madrasah, built in 1535, is still used a a madrasah (school) today.
We visited the local small bazaar where again we had some free time before breaking for a late lunch in yet another lovely setting. We had a local architect as a guest speaker who is heavily involved with the restoration effects in keeping the Bukhara old town as it was in ancient times.
Stopping at a local spice market.
1 gram Iranian saffron $11.50 .
One or two still operating hammams in the area. These date back 400-600 years.
The marble slab where I later learned is where you lie while getting a massage!
Having a great lunch in an air conditioned room in a lovely restaurant.
Our lunch speaker is a local architect who is deeply involved in the restoration of old Bukhara.
Our speaker showing us old photos of the old town area.
Walking back after lunch. Note how we all are trying to walk in the shade!
By 2PM it was pretty hot so we elected to rest during the afternoon. Those who wanted to could go out with Furkat around 4 PM for more sightseeing, otherwise we were told we would gather for dinner at 6:30PM. Being of sound mind I chose to NOT join the 4PM group but enjoyed the peace, solitude and air conditioning of my hotel room until meeting the group for dinner. By the way this was the afternoon where those people who wanted to try the “hammam” bath experience could do so. I had fully considered it until I read that it entailed-sitting in a hot sauna for 15-30 minutes, laying on a marble slab where your masseuse worked you over (including standing on your back). This led me to decide to wait until I could get a “regular” massage at one of the hotels later in the trip. With age comes wisdom!
Dinner was a bit of a treat as we ate in a local restaurant where there was a music and dance performance while we dined. The only negative was that it was outdoors and it was still fairly warm. Otherwise it was a fun evening as we got to hear authentic local music and watch dancers.
Local cuisine for dinner.
A local group who played traditional music for us.
Dancer in native dress performing native dances.
Same lady, different costume.
A second lady joined for some joint dances.
Several costume changes during the performance.
And a violin player played some songs for us.
Steps for the day: 7,398….Not bad given how hot it was!
